What are the electrical requirements?
Each sauna size and location will require a different size of breaker and wire gauge.
To give you an idea, the heater in our standard 4 person runs on a non-GFI 30 amp breaker, single phase, 220 volts, as specified on the CSA label. Most people think it needs a GFI breaker but it does not. If you install a GFI breaker it will constantly trip the breaker. The heater is tested and CSA approved for a non-GFI breaker.
That 30 amp breaker sits in a sub panel on the sauna, next to a 15 amp breaker for the light. The sub panel is fed from a standard 40 amp breaker in your main panel, and your electrician will size the wire.
Feel free to reach out to us and we can recommend an electrical contractor who is familiar with our saunas.
What this means for your build. There are three ways to handle the wiring, and all three are available on every build, whether we deliver it or crate and ship it to you. We can build the full electrical package onto the sauna in our shop and certify it before it leaves, which reduces your electrician’s job to running the power line and making the final connections. We can supply an electrician-ready components package — sub-panel, breakers, control box, dimmer, cover plate, high-heat RW90 wire and every screw, clip and connector your crew needs — for your own electrician to install and certify. Or we can refer you to an electrician who has wired our saunas before, in which case no electrical parts come with the sauna beyond the heater, its rocks and the controls, which are in the base price of every model.
Heaters larger than 6 kW need a contactor and heavier wire to the heater on top of the above. The three options, the breaker and wire figures your electrician needs, and current pricing are on our electrical page.
Still deciding?
Tell us the size you are thinking about and where it would go. Mark or his son Joonas answers every message personally, and will tell you straight if a Ryt Sauna is the wrong fit.